https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design.atom SFT Climbing - Design Blog 2016-09-20T14:51:00-07:00 SFT Climbing https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/117199684-owens-valley-testing 2016-03-09T14:56:00-08:00 2016-05-17T15:34:40-07:00 Owens Valley testing LAURA SHUMAKER A couple of weeks ago we sponsored the Belmont Planet Granite’s Friction Series, so I had the pleasure of hanging out at our table and watching the competitors crushing lead routes. I’m always sketching new shoe concept designs, and even while tabling I’ll draw one or two.

Concept for a lace-up/slipper hybrid bouldering shoe.

Some of the people who stopped by the SFT table had great input on one of my designs, and there was so much excitement about this concept that I decided to go ahead with a prototype.

The prototype pair of shoes was finished just in time for us to head to Owens Valley. Dan has been testing them all week, and he’s very happy with how they fit and the tension properties of the shoe. When we return to the shop, I’ll build a second version with some pattern updates for greater comfort and stretch management.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/116758980-how-it-s-made 2016-02-22T19:29:00-08:00 2016-05-17T15:44:44-07:00 How It’s Made LAURA SHUMAKER As promised in an earlier post, I completed our manufacturing video! There are also more details on our new How It’s Made page.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/117199492-field-testing-in-nevada 2016-01-15T14:56:00-08:00 2016-05-17T15:34:41-07:00 Field testing in Nevada LAURA SHUMAKER

The SFT crew was out field testing in Nevada, and we documented the trip, hoping to use some of the footage in the short video I’ve been working on. While this particular problem didn’t fit into the main video that I’m crafting, we had too much fun on it to just consign the video to a hard drive.

Film is a great medium because even the scraps can be repurposed into little stories like this – it inspired me to find more ways to use “scrap” material from everywhere in our process.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/117198916-custom-shoe-build-timelapse 2015-06-27T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:34:42-07:00 Custom shoe build timelapse LAURA SHUMAKER A recent beta customer suggested making a timelapse video of the process for his shoes:

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42718340-video-custom-last-shapeshifting 2015-05-27T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:40:45-07:00 Video: custom last shapeshifting LAURA SHUMAKER

Because our last model is parametric (its geometry is determined by a stored set of equations and relationships), it can adapt to accommodate different variations of foot proportions. This video shows how the last shape changes for a 5% increase in length and a 22% increase in width across the ball of the foot.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42718212-picture-of-the-day-february-24 2015-02-24T14:56:00-08:00 2016-05-17T15:40:45-07:00 Picture of the day: February 24 LAURA SHUMAKER Heating SFT’s branding iron.
Branded prototype ready for rubber application.
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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42718084-picture-of-the-day-january-22 2015-01-22T14:56:00-08:00 2016-05-17T15:40:46-07:00 Picture of the Day: January 22 LAURA SHUMAKER SFT has been cranking on a new, more predatory last. It’s getting close to production…]]> https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42718020-lets-make-a-shoe 2014-11-14T14:56:00-08:00 2016-05-17T15:40:46-07:00 Let's make a shoe! LAURA SHUMAKER ]]> https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42717828-september-testing-photos 2014-10-15T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:11:42-07:00 September testing photos LAURA SHUMAKER
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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42717700-pictures-of-the-day-june-24 2014-06-25T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:11:42-07:00 Pictures of the Day: June 24 LAURA SHUMAKER

This prototype was built to explore a new rand design. Instead of splitting the rand where the sole splits, the toe rand is a continuous arch which connects to the heel rand above the shoe's mid-section. This rand geometry produces a more torsionally stable toebox.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42717508-pictures-of-the-day-may-6 2014-05-06T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:11:43-07:00 Pictures of the Day: May 6 LAURA SHUMAKER Used no less than 4 different measuring/drafting devices for 1 drawing today.

Since the new last I'm working on is not based on a 3D scan, it's likely the most complex geometry I have ever created CAD for. Consequently, wrapping my head around it has required a lot of drawing board time. Pencil and paper is much more flexible than the rigid definitions of a CAD program when initially hashing out complex curves and has the up side of making me feel like a 1950s engineer. 

Further last planning: simplifying and smoothing a biological foot into a parametric last.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42717316-pictures-of-the-day-april-9th 2014-04-09T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:19:01-07:00 Pictures of the Day: April 9th LAURA SHUMAKER Built two new prototypes - one for Dan and one in my size. All the photos below are of my size. 

Prototype outstep with adjustment strap visible.

Prototype instep.

Prototype sole with adjustment strap visible.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42716804-pictures-of-the-day-november-12 2013-11-13T14:56:00-08:00 2016-05-17T15:25:09-07:00 Pictures of the Day: November 12 LAURA SHUMAKER Process for making new lasts:

1. Create sock and duct tape pattern of foot.

2. Scan sock model with 123D Catch.

3. Import scan into Rhino and model a smooth surface over it.

3. Smooth surface model in Rhino.

 

4. Slice Rhino model, import into AutoCAD and prepare for laser cutting.

5. Laser cut out of Masonite.

6. Glue laser cut pieces together.

6. Laser-cut parts glued up.

 

7. Shape last with sander.

7. Last after shaping.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42716612-picture-of-the-day-october-11 2013-10-14T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:25:10-07:00 Picture of the Day: October 11 LAURA SHUMAKER Gold: original ladder lock. Silver: custom ladder lock.After some testing, adding friction back to the bearings in the system did not look promising. Instead, I machined a custom ladder lock (shown in silver in the image). This design has a third aperture for the webbing which eliminates the self-unlocking angle.

Slip-testing results which compare the off-the-shelf ladder lock (shown in gold in the image) to the custom ladder lock are documented in the graph below.Blue lines: custom ladder locks. Gold lines: OTS ladder locks.

 

 

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42716164-picture-of-the-day-august-2 2013-08-03T17:42:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:13:04-07:00 Picture of the Day: August 2 LAURA SHUMAKER Ivory: polyurethane cast grommet Black: acetal CNC grommet master Translucent: Silicone moldAs promised in our work update, we're experimenting with casting grommets from our CNC master item. If these function well on the prototype, we'll work on making an "ice-cube tray" set of silicone molds to replace the single one we have here. Not quite mass production yet...]]> https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42716100-work-update-finishing-custom-parts 2013-08-02T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:28:51-07:00 Work Update: Finishing Custom Parts LAURA SHUMAKER While Mak and I were in Vegas learning about shoemaking, Dan made us a grommet on his desktop CNC mill

Toolpath visualization before exporting G-code. Machined acetal grommet. No thread holes yet in case we want to cast a mold from this part.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42715908-picture-of-the-day-july-17 2013-07-18T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:34:39-07:00 Picture of the Day: July 17 LAURA SHUMAKER Laura, are you doing an interpretive dance to welcome the new furniture?A sheet of plywood + two sets of shelving = a whole new work area for the sewing machine. The dining table can now accommodate dining once more. All of the white items on the left shelves are Mak's patterns, converging on a Platonic ideal.]]> https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42715844-pictures-of-the-day-july-16 2013-07-17T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:34:40-07:00 Pictures of the Day: July 16 LAURA SHUMAKER So... we broke the sewing machine. When advancing the foot, it seemed like a belt was slipping. We turned it over and removed the bottom plate only to find that this machine doesn't have any belts. Instead, it has three sets of bevel gears, one set of which was missing several teeth.

Old bevel gear set missing teeth on left.The nearest repair shop did have replacement gears for the 40-year-old die-cast machine, but having it professionally fixed would take a week. Oh, and that according to the mechanic, "you have to take the whole thing apart" from the top shaft with the cam, down the body by the motor, to the bottom shaft in the base where the broken gears actual were. We could see them and touch them and remove their set screws, but not get them out without taking every access panel off and futzing around inside a lot. It looked like a mess.

New spiral bevel gears installed.But what would our meche degrees be for, if we can't fix it ourselves and get our hands greased up (and seriously, there was a LOT of grease in there. The top worm gear interface was practically a fluid coupling) and play with all the screw-drivers in the garage? And hammers. Because that's what we resorted to. It turns out that most of the items removed from the top did not have to have their rusted-out threads budged. By taking out the plug on the side and applying some judicious hammer tapping, we got the bottom horizontal drive shaft and vertical drive shaft out, and replaced the gears. Then came the fearsome task of re-timing the machine. This is what all sewing repair shops advise you not to try. Well, Mak took an educated guess, found out that didn't work, took another educated guess, and had things properly synchronized. Not too fearsome, after all.

Then we buttoned everything back up, less a great deal of rust-laden grease, and carefully ran the machine. The thread tension had to be messed with a little and then it was functioning better than before!

All the tools before cleaning up. Test stitches after repair.



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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42715716-picture-of-the-day-june-28 2013-07-08T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:16:57-07:00 Picture of the Day: June 28 LAURA SHUMAKER First broken needle, Vomit Comet in background.

We managed to break our first needle today, trying to punch through a couple of layers of canvas, sew we snagged a picture of it with the Vomit Comet in the background. Hope you can handle bad puns.

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https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/42715588-picture-of-the-day-june-26 2013-06-26T14:56:00-07:00 2016-05-17T15:16:57-07:00 Picture of the day: June 26 LAURA SHUMAKER Stitching new laces in.

Purchased a sewing machine on Monday. We've been celebrating by using it near continuously, and it has increased our prototyping efficiency by about 50%.

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